My wife and
I have recently returned from trip to Greece and Turkey. All travelers know that any time you leave
the familiar you can learn much.
Personal experiences with foreign customs, cultures, geography,
governments and religion can teach a person much more than simply learning from
books, photographs or videos, although these can have great value in
introducing one to places, peoples, or concepts.
Such was our
recent experience in Greece and Turkey.
Although I
have for years studied and taught religion courses, including the great world
religions, and have traveled in non-Christian countries, I have not sensed the day-to-day
impact (somewhat stifling) upon those who embrace faiths other than my own as
much as I did in these two countries. The
two faiths represented were, of course, Christian Greek Orthodox in Greece, and
non-Christian Islam in Turkey.
In Greece,
as was to be expected, was found a strong secular feeling. Perhaps this was because of its ancient
historical antecedents of Greek philosophy and government—the ruins of which we
specifically went to see. But perhaps it
is also because of its EU status as a European country with the pan-European secularization
and lessening influence of Christianity, especially Catholicism—whether Roman
or Orthodox.
I got the
feeling that religion had been seriously marginalized in Greece—not nearly as
badly as in San Francisco, but nevertheless marginalized. Although a large majority of its citizens
claim Greek Orthodox membership, and it has a government status as the state
religion (the clergy’s salaries and pensions are paid for by the state and
school children receive Greek Orthodox instruction) the religiosity of the
people is not at all apparent. Other
faiths exist but are an extreme minority and exist in an inhospitable environment. Proselytism by other churches is prohibited. Greece seems to be, like its tumbled and
jumbled blocks of marble and granite remnants of once stately buildings and
temples, a country without, any longer (if it ever had one) a substantial moral
or religious foundation.
Turkey, the
sixth largest population-wise Islamic country in the world, has a population made
up of 99% Sunni Muslims but a government which claims it has ‘no official
religion nor promotes any.’ (Muslims
make up 23.2% of the world’s population and are growing as Christianity which
claim 31.5% is declining.)
We found the
claim of religious neutrality to be hard to believe. For example, the imams (muezzin) who blasted
us from bed each morning between 5:15 a. m. and 5:45 a. m. for official prayer
in a ‘non-official’ state are all government-appointed employees on the state
payroll. All mosques are also
state-funded. And most interesting is that this ‘secular’ national government has an office of ‘Religious
Affairs Directorate.’ Hmmm.
On the
positive side, whereas many of the larger Muslim governments (Saudi Arabia,
Iran, Sudan, Somalia, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Persian Gulf States) still forcibly
suppress other religious beliefs, Turkey ostensibly does not. In the other Muslim countries mentioned,
conversion to Islam is a supported tenet, but conversion from Islam is considered the sin of apostasy and is often strongly
punished and is threatened by death in Sharia law. We did not proselytize.
Now, here is
the rub. In neither country was real
religious freedom available. In both
countries untold thousands of little businesses and vendors vied for our
business, the foreign dollar—even aggressively.
Why not allow the same capitalistic atmosphere in the religious
marketplace? Why the lockdown on freedom
of conscience? In my faith we actively invite
people to investigate our beliefs. We ‘put
it on the table’ and invite young and old to look, ask, read, listen, respond,
convert. We do not rely upon tradition,
enforced lack of alternatives, threat, or historically forced compliance. We are confident that truth can cut its own
way—if people are exposed to truth. That
is our purpose. And that is the
difference.
We enjoyed our
trip and felt safe in both countries. Of
course we gave the Turkish-Syrian boarder a wide margin. We respected their
customs and represented our country as all Americans should. Outside of the huge cities of Athens and
Istanbul (population 15 million) we found the two countries beautiful and
geographically very similar to many places in the U.S.A.
By contrast
to the two countries visited and pertaining to religious freedom in our country,
we appreciate the great wisdom of our founding fathers in providing for freedom
of worship, speech, and assembly—also for the historic separation of Church and
state (though not as it is now being interpreted). The rich pluralistic landscape of religion in
America has enriched our country and has given an evidence-based (not
fear-based or intolerance-based) hope, at least in my faith, to millions of
people.
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